Lisbon: Neglected Gem Of The Best European Cities

By Mitchell Jones


It is almost as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without dropping off the edge, into the Atlantic Ocean. At the very periphery of Europe, Lisbon is often strangely overlooked by aficionados who pontificate on the virtues of the best European cities. True, it does not have the iconic landmarks; many dismiss its cuisine and wine as lower tier; and, largely as a consequence, it is not perceived as having the pizzazz of Paris, Rome or Berlin.

And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.

It is among - if not - the most crime-free capital cities in Europe. It's a walker's town, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas as you come around corners.

The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!

Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)

Lisbon is a terrific place to tour. I'd especially recommend it, though, as a real gem as a place for an extended stay. Whether you're enjoying a professional sabbatical, an extended vacation that allows you to settle into the rhythms of a place, living the ex-pat life, or are looking for the perfect spot to hole-up while writing your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.

And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.

For those of you interested in taking up my suggestion and living or taking an extended stay in Lisbon, an important part of enjoying your time is being sure you choose the right neighborhood in which to live. You have to find the one best suited to your needs and moods. Here are some of the top options.

Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.

If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.

Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.

Also recommended for those who don't mind paying a little more in rent for a little peace and charm is the lovely Santos district. Its riverside location provides it with oodles of cache. The artsy types might also like to know that Santos has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. It is though a relatively discreet notoriety and won't intrude much upon your enjoyment of this quaint residential area with its high quality housing.

So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.




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